Elba and Capraia (Elba)
Both islands are great destinations. Elba for its historic town and Napoleonic history. Capria provides tranquillity and uncrowded beauty.
I circumnavigated Elba, all 80 nautical miles, starting at an anchorage of Scaglieri, after a fast crossing from Corsica. Portoferraio is the main harbour and attraction, famous for being Napoleon’s place of exile. Approaching from the west Forte Falcone stands defiant on the headland, daring any to attack. Rounding the “corner” you pass further fortifications to be welcomed by a snug harbour backed by old terracotta roofed houses and buildings, topped by the fort and Napoleon’s “refuge” on the slopes behind. Tied stern to the quay, you can observe the hustle and bustle from your cockpit or step ashore and explore this historic town. Do secure your boat if going ashore. Napoleon’s exile wasn’t exactly hardship judging by the size of his house which is now open to visitors most days. While you are up there, it’s worth visiting Forte Stella and Forte Falcone as there is more than just the stunning views to seaward to enjoy.
Porto Azzurro was my next stop on the island. There is a small marina, although I preferred the peaceful anchorage nearby. I took an easy row ashore followed by a very long hike to the top of the rugged hills behind….in the words of George Mallory (lost on Everest) “..because it was there!” If you are not the hill climbing sort, you can enjoy a drink or an ice-cream in the town.
Capoliveri is just a 7 minute drive to the west but under sailing you have to round the headland to the south before reaching this large bay headed by a sandy beach. I continued to the next bay to the west, Lacona, which provides more shelter together with a sandy beach and a local campsite for provisions. There’s an excellent walk following a coastal path around the headland to the south. Some local dog walkers warned me to take care as there were wide boar around. My keen nosed Cockapoo companion never picked up a scent and we had the place largely to ourselves.
Another stunning overnight anchorage at Fetovaia was my last before moving on to Capraia. It was too hot to do anything other than enjoy a great lunch at the closest restaurant and enjoy the little shade available.
A Dragon's Tale 